Cross stitches are X's using different colored symbols
across a chart, like a paint by number. When finished, the
floss shades combine to create a beautiful stitched
painting.
Here are some basics you need to know.
#1. Work with the
right kind of needle.
You need a cross stitch
needle, which has a blunt end. I
often use size #24. Sharp needles will not
work well and will catch on your fabric.
#2. Work with the
right strands of floss.
I work with one
strand of floss (there are 6 strands in
every length of floss). To separate floss,
begin with cutting a length of regular floss
to about 18". Then, pulling one strand
away from the others, put the end of the
floss in your mouth (this works as another
hand), and pull gently. Of course, you
should store your floss in a small floss bag
to keep it clean. I double that strand of
floss and use the loop knot method to begin.
(see #3).
#3. Don't leave a
tail in the beginning.
This will make
your work very bumpy and your finish will
not look very nice. I give credit to
a model stitcher (Loris) for showing me how
to do the loop knot to begin my work. Here's
how it works.
Pull off one thread, approx.
18" long, and bring the 2 ends together.
Thread the needle, leaving a loop at the
end. Make your first half stitch, coming up
through the lower left hole, and going down
on the upper right hole. Then take the
needle through the loop made on the back and
pull carefully. Of course, when you get near
the end of your stitching length of thread,
you will weave this in on the back side for
approx. 1/2" before cutting. Any less will
cause the stitches to gradually become loose
on your piece.
(Note: you should leave a
tail before beginning backstitches or
embroidery, to be weaved in later).
#4. Check a fabric
calculator such as the one at Linen Flowers
before cutting your fabric.
We all know how precious
each cut of fabric is. So find the number of
stitches wide and the number of stitches
high on your chart, and enter them into the
fabric calculator. Give yourself a generous
margin to avoid difficulty in finishing
later. See #5 on how to find the center of
your fabric and where to place your first
stitch.
#5. Find the center
of the chart and your fabric before
starting.
This is the most important
step to know in Cross Stitch. It would be
disastrous to spend your time and money
stitching a project, only to find that there
is not enough room to complete it.
To find the center of the
chart, find the arrow at the top and at the
side. Follow these together until you have
one intersecting point.
Look at the top stitch of
your design- it will have a certain symbol
that corresponds to a color on the color
chart- this will be your first color to
start. (I look for the top left stitch in
the design, though other stitchers differ on
where to start).
Now, count up from the
center to that top stitch. It might be
something like, 24 up and 5 left. I usually
jot this down so I remember.
Next, find the center
of your fabric. I usually take a quilting
pin (one with a big yellow head) and poke it
into what looks to be the center of the
fabric. (Some will tell you to fold one way
and then the next, but I try to stay away
from folds in the fabric). Now, with that
same quilting pin, count your stitches up
and over according to the number you have written
down. This is where to begin that first
stitch on the chart.
I use quilting pins
alot when I do cross stitch, especially on
large pieces where I need to count before
beginning another area. Always count a few
times to make sure your count is right when
starting a piece or new area.
#6. Work row by
row (If possible).
This is usually
done by working left to right, but not
always. What you are trying to do is work
all in one direction so that you don't have
to end off and start again. I stop the
thread or go back if I am going to skip over
3 threads. Skipping over too many threads
will cause your stitching to pucker.
You may have a row
of 0000000000000's (symbols) you would
slant like this ///////////// going across
each one. (Don't cross each of these
stitches- wait until your return to cross
them). When you reach the end, look on your
next row to see if you have some isolated
stitches on that right side just below the
row you are on, and you can go ahead and
////// them. Then start working your way
back to the beginning, crossing them to make
XXXXXXXXXXXXXX's.
Working top down is
always preferred from bottom to top. It's
much easier to keep your place.
#7. Work with a
Lo-Ran magnetic board.
This is the best
tool ever invented for cross stitchers. It
is a magnetic board which has a magnetic
ruler that you place over your chart which
is placed on the board. This keeps your
place and allows you to move row by row
without losing your place. I use mine on
every thing I stitch. They are approx. $7-10
each.
#8. Work with clean
hands.
Wash your hands before
stitching. Use only stitching lotions, as
regular lotions have oils which can stain
the fabric.
#9. Keep your piece
clean.
Roll or fold up
your fabric and place in a clean ziploc bag
when finishing, away from pets and small children,
or accidents that could happen.
#10. About
scissors-
Small embroidery sharp
scissors are perfect for trimming small
threads against the fabric. A beaded scissor
fob helps to keep them from getting lost.
#11. Working on
hoops, frames, or in hand...
It seems that most beginners
think a hoop is needed when learning to
stitch. But a hoop can leave marks on the
fabric. Qsnaps are a better choice for
keeping the piece stretched.
For me, no
matter how large or small the project, holding it in my
hand works the best for me. I roll the
left side as I work toward the right.
When the piece is done, you
can place it face down into a thick terry
cloth towel and very carefully, iron it on
low heat. Be very careful not to scorch the
fabric.
Washing on regular floss may
be accomplished with cold water and Dawn or
a gentle liquid soap. Rinse very well with
cold water. (Note: washing is not
recommended for many hand-dyed threads).
#12. Mounting
needlework
After ironing, you
will want to mount your needlework on
acid-free foam core board, if you are not
finishing it another way. You can mount it
by using small rust free pins on the back,
turned into the board and securing the
fabric.
I usually choose
the frame and mat before cutting the foam
core board with a razor knife.
Sticky boards look
great for mounting, but unfortunately the
glue over time adheres to the needlework.
#13. Railroading
I had cross
stitched for quite a while before I heard of
Railroading, but it has been very beneficial
to my stitching. Railroading means this:
After you make your
//////// stitches and are ready to return
\\\\\\, take your
needle down through the center of your two
threads below the needle to make the stitch.
This helps your stitches to lay flat and
look fuller and nicer.
