If you are a beginner,
working counted cross stitch is easier than
you think. If you can count, and you can
thread a needle and work an X, you can do
cross stitch.
However, there are
basics you need to know.
#1. Work with the
right kind of needle.
You need a cross
stitch needle, or needle with a blunt end. I
often use size #24. Sharp needles will not
work well and will catch on your fabric.
#2. Work with the
right strands of floss.
I work with one
strand of floss (there are 6 strands in
every length of floss). To separate floss,
begin with cutting a length of regular floss
to about 18". Then, pulling one strand
away from the others, put the end of the
floss in your mouth (this works as another
hand), and pull gently. Of course, you
should store your floss in a small floss bag
to keep it clean.
#3. Don't follow
the instructions you read about leaving a
tail in the beginning.
Why? This will make
your work incredibly bumpy. I give credit to
a model stitcher (Loris) for showing me how
to do the loop knot to begin my work. Here's
how it works.
Pull off one
thread, approx. 18" long, and bring
the 2 ends together. Thread the needle,
leaving a loop at the end. Make your first
half stitch, coming up through the lower
left hole, and going down on the upper right
hole. Then take the needle through the loop
made on the back and pull carefully. Of
course, when you get near the end of your
stitching length of thread, you will weave
this in on the back side for approx. 1/2"
before cutting. Any less will cause the
stitches to gradually become loose on your
piece. (Note: you should leave a tail before
beginning backstitches or embroidery, to be
weaved in later).
#4. Check a fabric
calculator such as the one at Linen Flowers
before cutting your fabric.
We all know how
precious each cut of fabric is. So find the
number of stitches wide and the number of
stitches high on your chart, and enter them
into the fabric calculator. Give yourself at
least 3 inches on all sides at the very
least (best for finishing into pillows)- up
to 6 inches all around for framing. This
will give you the exact dimensions- then go
ahead and cut your fabric, using a yard
stick.
#5. Find the center
of the chart and your fabric before
starting.
Very important!
This is necessary so that you don't begin
stitching near the edge and have to start
all over.
To find the center
of the chart, find the arrow at the top and
at the side. Follow these together until you
have one intersecting point. Look at the top
stitch of your design- it will have a
certain symbol that corresponds to a color
on the color chart- this will be your first
color to start. Now, count up from the
center to that top stitch. It might be
something like, 24 up and 5 left. I usually
jot this down so I remember.
Now find the center
of your fabric. I usually take a quilting
pin (one with a big yellow head) and poke it
into what looks to be the center of the
fabric. (Some will tell you to fold one way
and then the next, but I try to stay away
from folds in the fabric). Now, with that
same quilting pin, count your stitches up
according to the number you have written
down. This is where to begin that first
stitch on the chart.
I use quilting pins
alot when I do cross stitch, especially on
large pieces where I need to count before
beginning another area. Always count a few
times to make sure your count is right when
starting a piece or new area.
#6. Work row by
row (If possible).
This is usually
done by working left to right, but not
always. What you are trying to do is work
all in one direction so that you don't have
to end off and start again. I stop the
thread or go back if I am going to skip over
4 threads, which is about 1/2". This will
cause your stitching to pucker. I will
usually skip over 3 squares and no more.
You may have a row
of 0000000000000's (symbols) you would
slant like this ///////////// going across
each one. (Don't cross each of these
stitches- wait until your return to cross
them). When you reach the end, look on your
next row to see if you have some isolated
stitches on that right side just below the
row you are on, and you can go ahead and
////// them. Then start working your way
back to the beginning, crossing them to make
XXXXXXXXXXXXXX's.
Working top down is
always preferred from bottom to top. It's
much easier to keep your place.
#7. Work with a
Lo-Ran magnetic board.
This is the best
tool ever invented for cross stitchers. It
is a magnetic board which has a magnetic
ruler that you place over your chart which
is placed on the board. This keeps your
place and allows you to move row by row
without losing your place. I use mine on
every thing I stitch. They are approx. $7-10
each.
#8. Work with clean
hands.
Wash your hands
before stitching and don't use hand cream
before. (The oils can get into the fabric).
#9. Keep your piece
clean.
Roll or fold up
your fabric and place in a clean ziploc bag
when finishing, away from pets and children
or accidents that could happen.
#10. About
scissors-
Use small
embroidery sharp scissors for cutting floss.
Large scissors are very difficult and
awkward. I keep my small scissors on a
crocheted chain around my neck so that they
are always handy. Some stitchers prefer to
put beaded fobs on theirs.
#11. Working on
hoops, frames, or in hand...
I know the books
say to use hoops, but frankly- who needs
those marks on their work? Plus, my hands
get sore holding any type of frame.
Many stitchers like
to use stretching bars to keep their piece
taut.
But for me, no
matter how large or small, holding it in my
hands works the best for me, and rolling the
left side as I work toward the right.
I always iron after
the piece is done. (Very carefully!). I do
not wash as I keep the piece as clean as I
can during the stitching and I fear the
colors bleeding. Some stitchers have had
good experience placing the piece in the
freezer before ironing as a type of starch.
#12. Mounting
needlework
After ironing, you
will want to mount your needlework on
acid-free foam core board, if you are not
finishing it another way. You can mount it
by using small rust free pins on the back,
turned into the board and securing the
fabric.
I usually choose
the frame and mat before cutting the foam
core board with a razor knife.
Sticky boards look
great for mounting, but unfortunately the
glue over time adheres to the needlework.
#13. Railroading
I had cross
stitched for quite a while before I heard of
Railroading, but it has been very beneficial
to my stitching. Railroading means this:
After you make your
//////// stitches and are ready to return
\\\\\\, take your
needle down through the center of your two
threads below the needle to make the stitch.
This helps your stitches to lay flat and
look fuller and nicer.
